Hidden Gems: The Sensual Pleasure of the Beaujolais Crus

On the doorstep of Burgundy, in the North of Beaujolais, there is hidden gold to be found. If you are looking for delicious, sensual, food-friendly wines, great quality and excellent value, this is the place. Consistently under priced, underrated and currently out of fashion, Beaujolais has real treasure if you know where to look.

Made from the thin-skinned Gamay grape, it is a cross of Pinot Noir and an ancient white variety. Beaujolais doesn’t have a necessarily have a reputation for premium fine wines, and indeed as Gamay is a naturally high yielding grape variety, it can be the source of many a bottle of plonk. It needs some harsh soil and skilful vineyard techniques to slow down it’s vigour and allow the grapes to have a slower and therefore richer and more complex ripening period to allow for truly great quality wine to be made. This is where the appellations make all the difference. The top quality Beaujolais Crus such as Fleurie, Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent have soils which are predominantly made up of granite, which provide much more structured and elegant wines. 

In July, 1395 the Duke of Burgundy, Phillipe the Bold, outlawed the Gamay Grape in the Burgundy region and declared it to be “a very bad and disloyal plant.” Chiefly as it was known as an abundant and low quality peasant wine at the time, rather than the elegant and refined Pinot Noir that Burgundy is so famous for. Therefore it was banished southwards to the granitic soils of Beaujolais, where it has thrived since.  

There are 10 Crus, all with slightly different terroir which results in some Crus being known for soft light bodied, low tannin, fruity reds, all the way up to darker, weightier and more structured examples. The area is also famous for a hearty use of Whole Bunch Fermentation and Carbonic Maceration in the winery, which provides a purity of fruit, aromatics and a delicate texture when used with care.

So where is the gold I hear you ask? I shall break them down into Bronze, Silver and Gold in order to differentiate style, weight and price.  With a great concentration of quality producers, these are the destinations to begin your hunt.

Bronze: Côte de Brouilly, is an elegant wine with a silky mouthfeel and often very good value. It’s light in style, but it’s still seriously delicious wine. With wild strawberries and raspberries, herbs, black cherry and bramble fruit, soft delicate tannins and refreshing acidity, it pairs excellently with a Roast Chicken, or any light to medium Game Birds. It makes for very quaffable and charming everyday table wine. The appellation lower down the hill, Brouilly, is lighter still and meant for early drinking, think Paris Bistrot Wine at Lunch. Prices generally start around £14. 

Silver: Fleurie, known as being the Queen of Beaujolais, is light to medium in style and renowned for being slightly floral and herbal, and will usually retail at somewhere between £20 to £30 a bottle to start. There is some real value to be had here, as the best examples have some weight and structure that feels Burgundian with plenty of sensual pleasure to be had at the aromatics. The naturally high acidity means that it’s super refreshing, therefore an ideal pairing with rich fatty foods such as Duck to cleanse the palate. Chiefly red fruit driven with soft black fruits like plum, damson and blackberry that complement a great many Game Bird dishes. Perfect for a Sunday Roast. 

Gold: Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent are the darker, serious, weightier options of the Beaujolais Crus, and are often distinctly Burgundian in style. With bottle age they will develop similar complex earthy, forest floor and mushroom and truffle notes notably found in great Burgundy. Moulin-a-Vent is regarded as being the King of Beaujolais as it is the most age-worthy and averages between £30 to £40 a bottle. This is particularly excellent value when you compare it to Burgundian prices, and these make superb pairings with all manner of Game Dishes. Keep in mind that whilst this is the most tannic and structured of all the Beaujolais Cru, it is still made from Gamay which will never match the depth of colour or tannin of thicker skinned grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, think closer to a Pinot Noir for a weight match.  These Crus often need 3 or 4 years in bottle before approaching. 

Beaujolais is all predominantly red fruit driven with a lot of woodland notes such as wild strawberries, wild raspberry, blackberry, damson, black cherries and mulberry. They can also be slightly herbal and floral, with subtle notes of thyme, spice, rose and violet. The tannins and body are usually low to medium with consistently high acidity. This makes them excellent versatile food pairing options, as they are unlikely to overpower a dish, but will enhance and complement the food. Another great advantage of Beaujolais is that it can be drunk young, although the top Crus such as Morton and Moulin-a-Vent can age beautifully and will develop complex savoury and tertiary notes. 

If your taste is for gutsy, powerful, high alcohol, high tannin wines, then this is not the grape for you. If you like something a little lighter on it’s feet, balanced, elegant and sensual, this will provide a great deal of pleasure for you. 

Pairing: Best paired with any Game Birds. All of them work well with Duck or Goose. Choose the weightier ones with Grouse, Pigeon, Pheasant and Partridge. Serve lightly chilled. 

Note: Anything with “Beaujolais”, or “Beaujolais Villages” on the label are of lower ranking appellations and consequently much lower quality. Similar with reference to Beaujolais Nouveau. The pricing of top quality Beaujolais Crus (Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, or Fleurie) are so reasonable, I’d recommend sticking to those, unless you have a particularly good wine merchant recommending one to you and you trust their judgement.  

Clos de la Roilette Fleurie is one of our favourites, with lashings of beautiful black cherry, spiced plum and damson fruit. Bonus points for being available in a Magnum also.

Below is a selection from Lea & Sandeman that are a good starting point to explore your own taste for quaffable treats.